A Journey Through Turkish Terroir – My 2023 Wine-Focused Adventure Across Türkiye

In 2023, I returned to Türkiye for what would become one of the most unforgettable wine journeys of my life. While I’ve visited the country countless times before, this trip was something else—a deep dive into the heart of Turkish winemaking, guided by flavour, history, and the warmth of genuine hospitality.

The journey took me across some of Türkiye’s most iconic wine regions, with stops at Kavaklıdere, Paşaeli, Kocabağ, and Suvla—each one offering a different lens into the country’s evolving yet ancient winemaking culture.

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Day One: Kavaklıdere – Tradition in the Capital

My first tasting began at the legendary Kavaklıdere Wines in Ankara, one of Türkiye’s oldest and most respected producers. The experience was polished yet intimate, pairing their structured Kalecik Karası and elegant Narince with finely prepared meze dishes in a beautifully restored tasting room. Walking through their underground cellars, I got a real sense of the legacy that Kavaklıdere has built since 1929.

We travelled across Ankara’s rolling vineyard hills in a rugged yet comfortable Land Rover Defender, which became our trusty companion through the rest of the trip.

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Paşaeli Wines – Modern Vibes on the Aegean

From the heart of Anatolia, we made our way west to Paşaeli Wines near İzmir, on Türkiye’s sun-drenched Aegean coast. Here, tradition meets innovation. Their Karasakız and Çalkarası wines were the stars of the tasting—light yet layered, with beautiful tension between fruit and structure.

Lunch was served under olive trees at the edge of the vineyard, where a chef prepared grilled sea bass, olive tapenade, and roasted aubergine—all perfectly paired with their crisp Sauvignon Blanc. As the sun dipped behind the vines, we explored the nearby Çal District near Denizli, walking through neighboring vineyards in sandy-limestone soils that seem to whisper stories of forgotten varietals.

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Kocabağ Wines – Cappadocia’s Underground

A short flight (and a winding drive through moon-like landscapes) brought us to Cappadocia, where we visited Kocabağ Wines, nestled among the volcanic rock formations of the region. Their Emir and Boğazkere wines carry a distinct minerality, shaped by the region’s tufa-rich soils and high elevation.

Tasting wine inside a rock-carved cellar, lit only by flickering candles, felt almost spiritual. The highlight? A candlelit pairing dinner featuring slow-cooked lamb tandır and smoked eggplant puree, set beneath fairy chimneys and an impossibly star-filled sky.

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Suvla Wines – Coastal Charm on the Gallipoli Peninsula

We ended our tour at Suvla Wines, just across the Dardanelles on the Gallipoli Peninsula. This modern, coastal winery is a gem, producing expressive Cabernet Sauvignons, Syrah blends, and the beautifully aromatic Suvla Kabatepe Rosé. We explored the vines on electric buggies, weaving between rows of Sangiovese and Merlot with views of the Aegean shimmering beyond.

Lunch was served al fresco at their winery bistro—fresh mussels, stuffed vine leaves, and chargrilled octopus paired with a barrel-aged Suvla Chardonnay. The breeze carried the scent of salt and rosemary, a perfect companion to the wines in our glasses.

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Beyond the Bottle – Hospitality and Harmony

What truly set this trip apart, beyond the wine itself, was the hospitality. Every host, every winemaker, and every driver we encountered was eager to share not just wine, but stories, food, and laughter. Whether walking through a vineyard in Thrace near Şarköy, sipping çay with growers near Bodrum, or enjoying a sunrise tasting on a balcony overlooking the Cappadocian valleys, the warmth was constant.

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Final Reflections

This journey reaffirmed what I’ve always believed: Türkiye is one of the most underrated wine countries in the world. The diversity of its terroir, the richness of its native grape varieties, and the passion of its winemakers are all world-class—and just waiting to be discovered.

If you’ve ever been curious about Turkish wine, there’s never been a better time to explore. Whether through a glass of Öküzgözü, a chilled Narince, or a bold Karasakız, you’ll find centuries of tradition and bold modern vision swirling together in every sip.

And as for me? I left full—of food, wine, and inspiration—and already planning my next adventure across the vineyards of Anatolia.